Azaleas: A Key To Creating A Beautiful Landscape

For many people, it's not officially spring until they turn on the TV and see the azaleas that bloom each April at the Augusta National Country Club in Georgia-the site of the Masters professional golf tournament.

Azaleas are a large, diverse group of flowering shrubs with single and double blooms in many shades of white, purple, red, pink or orange. Most bloom from early to late spring with a few extending later into the growing season.

To enjoy the beauty of azaleas at your own home, begin by choosing a variety that is well adapted to your garden environment and climate.

"Check with your local nursery, home center or cooperative extension service to see what they recommend based on your region of the country," says Bayer Advanced™ Garden Expert Lance Walheim, who wrote the best-selling book "Roses for Dummies" and is a regular contributor to Sunset magazine. He thinks choosing the right types and varieties for your area is the first step to success. "Then choose a consistent color theme as opposed to the Crayola Crayon approach of mixing them up."

Here are a few important tips for planting azaleas:

• Choose a planting site with light shade (some varieties can take some sun) and well-drained, acidic soil rich in organic matter;

• Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball. The top of the root ball should be slightly above the top of the surrounding soil;

• Lift the container off the plant and cut or loosen any matted roots off the root ball;

• After planting, apply a thick layer of organic mulch and keep soil slightly moist, never letting the plants dry out completely.

Azaleas can last for decades in your yard with proper watering and preventive measures to ward off destructive insects and diseases. Bayer Advanced Dual Protection Azalea, Camellia & Rhododendron Insect & Disease Control protects against aphids, Japanese beetles, lace bugs and leaf beetles while controlling diseases such as leaf spot, powdery mildew and rust. One application protects for up to six weeks and is applied as a drench-so no spraying. Just measure, mix and pour-it's that easy to protect your investment and keep your azaleas beautiful year-round.

Is It Really Teak Wood? Caveat Emptor! (Part One)

This article contains a plethora of information and would be difficult to take in all at once. For that reason, I have broken this article into two parts.

"Caveat Emptor" is Latin for "Let the buyer beware".

If you have Teak wood outdoor furniture, there is very little you will need to do be ready for spring and summer gatherings to begin. If you purchased "teak oiled" or "better than teak wood" outdoor furniture, you may be in for a big surprise.

There are several outlets that are selling wood outdoor furniture using phrases like, "Teak oiled wood furniture". Teak oiled means just that: the wood that the furniture is made from has been oiled with Teak oil. Period. It is not Teak wood as many of us who may have purchased it would have hoped to believe.

Part of the problem is that we are all looking for the "deal". We want to pay as little as possible for high quality items so badly that we often overlook or don't look at all at what we are actually getting for our money.

What does "Teak like" furniture mean? Does that mean that the wood has a high silica content like Teak wood? Does it mean that the wood will weather all the natural elements and last 75-100 years left outdoors, like Teak wood will? What exactly does it mean?

Look at this verbiage on any number of websites or in any number of stores and you will see it. Some of these outdoor wood furniture pieces that are the "GREAT DEALS" are made from a wood called Nyatoh, not Teak. It is sold as an exotic hardwood and many outlets and advertisers call it a wood which wears and behaves like teak? Go on to E-Bay and you will find sellers who are advertising it as "stronger than teak wood". In fact, that is not true.

Who are these marketers trying to kid? Guess what, they are trying to kid us all. Marketers are very good at putting spins on things to make us, the buying public, think one thing, and because we did not pay attention, it turns out to be something completely different.
Where are many of the consumers getting these great deals and purchasing their "Teak like" outdoor furniture? It is reported that many of these wood outdoor furniture sets are being purchased from big chain department stores located in each and every town across the United States, as well as local grocery and drugstores, and on the internet.

Take a look at Nyatoh versus Teak in one area of wood measurement: Durability. Nyatoh wood is generally rated as Class 3, nondurable to moderately durable, and has a low resistance to termite attack. Its sapwood is liable to powder-post beetle attack. Other woods more familiar to us with this similar durability rating are: American Cherry: African mahogany: Japanese Oak: Southern Pine: American Walnut: and Western Red Cedar, just to name a few.

Teak woods durability is classified as Class 1, Very Durable. Woods in this class include Ebony: Iroka: Makore: and Opepe to name a few. And this is just one area of measurement we are looking at, (just as a side note, class 2, which is Durable, contains familiar woods like American Oak: Balau: Sweet Chestnut: Cedar: Ekki: and Karri woods to name a few).

Nyatoh wood is protected with oil. Once treated, this wood should consistently be treated each year to maintain some protection from the elements. When it comes to Nyatoh wood, the consumer must pay particular attention to sufficiently oiling the "joints" where the protection is needed most. If water gets trapped in the joints of this wood, wood rot will begin.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with Nyatoh wood at all. It is being fashioned in very similar styles of other high quality outdoor furniture. If you are looking for the deal, make this purchase. Just be aware of what it is you are really buying. It is NOT Teak wood. You will need to maintain it differently than you would Teak wood and you may need to replace it more frequently just as you have your previous outdoor patio furniture. 

Choosing A Garden Fence

Garden fencing can serve many purposes, but one of the best is to accent and define areas of your garden. Whether you choose a six or twelve inch high border edging, or stand a section of post and rail garden fencing in the center of a sweep of lawn, garden fencing can add a beautiful accent to your landscaping.

Wood lattice makes attractive garden fencing that affords some privacy while allowing glimpses of the garden. Lattice boards set into a wooden privacy fence add a whole new design dimension to the frontage of your garden. A single width of lattice fencing can provide a screen or windbreak, and support for any climbing vines.

Set a lattice panel at the edge of the garden nearest the house and train morning glories to climb it to provide a scenery wall outside a kitchen or bedroom window, or create a simple arbor with two full height lattice panels set six to eight feet apart. Use thick garden twine to create a 'bridge' for vines to climb across and form a living 'roof'.

Border edging is another extremely versatile garden fencing option. Think outside the perimeter. You can use wire garden fencing to create smaller accents within a garden plot, or outline one corner or end of a garden with cast iron border edging.

Cedar shakes or redwood blocks can be used to create curved borders for slightly raised garden beds, or serve as a backdrop over which to spill indigo lobelia or white alyssum. Create a zigzag border of decorative low picket garden fencing and plant zinnias or marigolds in the V-shaped 'teeth' for a unique look
Garden fencing can be used to create a beautiful background for patio dining. Choose a metal trellis and install it just off the patio edge behind the table and dining set. Twine climbing roses up over it to create an accent that defines the edge of the patio and creates an elegant, tasteful accent to your patio and garden at the same time.

Wrought-iron or cast-iron fences tend to be ornate, which suits more formal, historic houses, such as Victorians, or high-end urban homes. Today, similar styles are available in powder-coated steel, anodized aluminum or composite materials that are much more affordable and easier to maintain.

Stone fences, which are the oldest known type of fencing, make great garden walls or boundary markers around traditional homes, such as Colonials and Cape Cods, when built with native stone. Dry-stacked walls stay together with the help of gravity and friction.

The picket fence, a low, decorative style used to define property rather than secure it, is a universally popular style flexible enough to work with almost any home. There are many variations on the picket fence, including the Federal style, which features scalloped pickets and decorative finials.

 

Mulching Benefits - Organic And Inorganic Mulch Types

Mulching is the practice of placing a loose surface onto the surface of soil in your flower or vegetable garden in order to protect, insulate and beautify the area. This loose covering is called a mulch and it can be either of an organic or inorganic variety. Examples of mulches include compost, stone and grass clippings. Every gardener should understand the many benefits of mulching the soil in their garden. This article will discuss the benefits of mulching, how to choose the correct mulch and have a quick look at some of the different types of organic and inorganic mulches available.


Benefits of Mulching
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Let us explore some benefits of mulching:

* Prevents soil erosion - Soil erosion happens when winds or water slowly wear away the surface of soil and remove it. Mulching your soil will prevent this as there is now a protective, replaceable layer.that comes between the surface of the soil and the forces of nature above it.

* Insulates the soil in winter - The harsh temperatures of winter can be unkind. Mulching the soil in winter will insulate the soil preventing it from repeated patterns of freezing and thawing and will insulate plant roots. It prevents heaving (buckling upward) of soil in spring. Mulch should be applied to the soil when it has frozen and removed in spring only when there is no danger of further frosts. Winter-mulched soil thaws out more quickly in the spring.

* Cools down soil in summer - A layer of mulch in summer protects the soil beneath from the extreme heats of summer and reduces the need for constant watering i.e. water retention is improved.

* Helps against soil compaction - The layer of mulch acts as a buffer or extra layer between entities that can cause compaction on the soil below e.g. people, equipment, heavy rains.

* Improves appearance - A mulch applied to your bed can make it look more complete and attractive. This varies from mulch to mulch as some are more attractive and natural looking than others.

* Prevents weed growth - One of the more useful benefits of mulching is in weed prevention. While the mulch itself will not stop weeds from germinating it serves to act as a barrier between the weeds and the outside world above. When a weed reaches the mulch layer it will not be able to break above it and it will eventually die back. Some mulches perform this weed prevention feature better than others. Depth of mulch is also a contributing factor. Care should be taken however when selecting mulches as some mulches like grass clippings and straw may actually contain weed seeds.

* Keeps fruit and vegetables clean - A layer of mulch reduces the chances of fruit and vegetables getting dirty from splashes from the soil below.


Choosing the Correct Mulch for Your Garden
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Careful thought should be given when choosing a mulch to apply to your garden as each is different and should fit in with your exact requirements. Here are some common factors that should be considered:

* Soil pH suitability - Some mulches like bark mulch and pine needle mulch can affect the pH value of soil so they are best used on soils containing acid-loving plants.

* Removal in spring - Certain mulches need to be removed in spring because they can smother emerging plants. Examples include stone mulch and bark chips.

* Cost - Is cost a limiting factor in your choice of mulches? If so you can find your mulch for free if you choose certain types. If you keep a compost heap then you will have compost for mulching. Other free mulches (if you have the sources) are pine needles and grass clippings
* Appearance - Do you care about how the bed will look when the mulch is applied? Each mulch adds a different look and depending on the design of your garden you may want to choose a mulch that matches it in colour and texture.

* Penetration by water and air - Some mulches are better at allowing water and air to pass through them than others. This may be important depending on a plant's watering requirements.

* Addition of nutrients to the soil - Organic mulches add nutrients back into the soil when they decompose. The nutrient types and their amounts added back into the soil depend on the mulch and it varies quite a bit. Using compost as a mulch guarantees plenty of nutrients for your plants.


Some Types of Organic Mulch
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This type of mulch once used to be living material and as such will decompose over time. During their decomposition vital nutrients will be added back into your soil. However you may want to avoid using organic mulches if you have rodent problems. Some common organic mulches are:

* Compost - Mulches and feeds the soils as it decomposes. This mulch is free if you have access to your own compost heap. Apply at a depth of 1 - 3 inches.

* Pine Needles - Commonly used with acid soils. Cheap, looks great and allows water to pass through freely to the soil below. It decomposes quite slowly however. Apply to a depth of 1 - 1.5 inches

* Straw - Provides great insulation, water penetration and weed control. Care should be taken that straw does not contain weed seeds itself. Apply to a depth of 6 - 8 inches.

* Grass Clippings - Readily available and decomposes quite quickly adding nitrogen back into the soil. Try not to apply too fresh as it can heat up quite a bit and possibly cause damage to your plants. Apply to a depth of 1 inch.

* Newspaper - Provides great weed control and is readily available. Apply another mulch on top to keep it in place. Apply in 2 layer sections.


Some Types of Inorganic Mulch
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Inorganic mulches are inert materials that have not originated from living material. Sometimes inorganic and organic mulches are used in conjunction with one another. For example a geotextile (inorganic mulch) may be covered and held in place by bark chips (organic mulch). Some common inorganic mulches are:

* Stone - Looks great and provides great insulation. If removal in spring is a factor in your choice of mulch avoid using stone. Degrades very, very slowly. Apply to a depth of 2 - 4 inches.

* Plastic - Does not decompose so it does not add anything into the soil. Acts as a great weed control and is easily laid. Must be perforated to allow water to pass through. Apply in a thickness of 1 - 6 mm.

* Geotextile - Expensive blanket-like synthetic fiber that provides great weed control and allows for water penetration. Almost always used in conjunction with a cover mulch (e.g. bark chips). Apply in a single layer.


Conclusion
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In this article we looked at the many benefits of mulching and the different types available. Maybe take the time today to decide which mulch to use in your garden if you have not mulched in the past. You may be surprised at how cheap the process can be if you use mulches such as compost from your compost heap, grass clippings from your lawn cuttings and/or the Sunday newspapers! Happy mulching.